Last Updated on Saturday, 23 October 2010 15:22 Written by Mik Tuesday, 06 April 2010 15:03

The AVDS is the an anti dive unit on the front of each front fork. If you look on the knob there are 3 settings. The 1 was the softest and 3 was hardest.

It can be pretty difficult to actually get the system running like new as they are linked to the front  brake calipers. The way I tackle the problem (I have just done this recently)

1. fill up the brake level and keep squeezing away, it feels like ages that your not getting anywhere, but it will happen and you will know.

Attach a clear tube to the nipple and put it into a jar of brake fluid, or use one of the automatic brake bleeding kits.

2. (A friend is handy here) start with the top nipple first, (The one where both lines run into the junction) undo the nipple slightly, Gently pull the lever in to the handle (you will have the fluid running through the nipple lines along with air bubbles) , get your friend to close the nipple, then let out the lever, squeeze lever back to handle bar, close nipple, do this until all the air is expelled.

3. repeat this with the brake caliper

4 and again with the AVDS system.

5. leave over night, with the brake fluid cap left on but not tightened down, this should help with the last bit of air to escape over night.

6. repeat the whole process again. fix down brake fluid cap tightly.

The idea is to remove ALL of the small air bubbles, when you have finished you should not (or its extremely difficult) to pull your brake lever to the handlebars.

(See brakes)

 

Its a bit odd having this section here as its mainly about the brakes, but it also has an important bearing on the front suspension. a lot of people use blanking plates and di assemble the AVDS altogether, but I have kept it original.

 

The front suspension features an anti-drive system, designed to firm-up the suspension during hard breaking to lessen the tendency of fork compression, which reduces suspension travel. On A and B models this is accomplished through the Automatic Variable Damping System (ADVS), which changes the fork valving as the front brake lever is squeezed. The settings on the dial are 1 to 3, one being soft and 3 being the hardest setting. you can alos add up to 4psi into the forks at the top of the fork yolks.

On C models, this action is performed by the Electric Suspension Control System (ESCS). Both of these variable damping systems are adjustable by turning a knob on each unit to one of three positions. The front suspension can also be fine-tuned by adjusting the air pressure in the forks.

The rear suspension uses Kawasaki's proven Uni-trak suspension, which employs a shock absorber/spring unit mounted ahead of the swingarm, close to the center of gravity of the machine. The damping characteristics of the rear shock are adjustable (four possible settings) and air can also be added to suit various riding conditions and loads. Again the settings can be adjusted by a small lever/pull that sits behind the RHS side panel. just pull/push the lever for your desired setting. You can also add air into the tyre like valve but no more than 6psi.

 

 

Disclaimer here.

I am not a motorcycle mechanic and have been restoring/fixing bikes for only 35 years, if you are not competent in your own work, I would suggest you seek professional help in anything that you need to do to your own brakes.  Brakes are the biggest safety feature of any motor vehicle and it cannot be stressed enough that ONLY DO THIS IS YOU HAVE EXPERIENCE. No liability accepted.

 

Suspension Settings

 

I was asked a question recently on how to set the rear suspension.

on the RHS (while sat on bike) remove the side cover, there you will find a small lever, this lever has 4 notches on it, just pull it out or push it in to your desired setting. notch 1 is for the softest setting and 4 the hardest.

remembering the bike is starting to become quite old, you may find no change in feeling and this may be due to that your current shocker is in need or a rebuild and renewing.

Near the lever, you should also find a small tyre valve, you can add some more extra pressure to the shocker by pumping in a few pounds of air. The recommended settings are 0-50psi for the rear shocker. I usually set mine at around 14psi. You can also check the condition of your shocker, pump in approx 30psi of air, leave over night and take another reading, if the reading is zero then you need to look at a new shocker or shocker rebuild.

The front forks can also be adjusted by adding air into them. just under the top yokes again you will find (usually on RHS) another tyre valve, take off the cap and add air. the maximum for the front should be less than 10psi.

NOTE: you will loose air when you remove the air pump. DO NOT USE A FORECOURT/SERVO/PETROL STATION AIR PUMP, YOU WILL BLOW YOUR SEALS.

use a bicycle pump and pump in small amount of air and check with your tyre guage.

 

FORK OIL

I used 15w fork oil for my bike, you may end up using slightly lighter or heavier oil, I put 325ml (321 +/- 4cc) into each fork, 1ml=1cc

this was in forks that had been completely drained and cleaned out. If all you are doing is changing the oil, then around 275ml (275cc) would probably do the job.